Wednesday, 13 April 2011

Visitors















I hate blogging when I have nothing to write about - there's no
shortage of news for this one.

The Aunties out for a Visit

My sister and her friend Annette came out for ten days or so and
we completed a whirlwind week around the Emirates and into
Oman. It was great to spend a decent amount of time with
Michelle and to meet Annette, who was quickly adopted as one
of Matija's aunties. After picking the girls up in Dubai, being
overtaken by a couple of idiot drivers and seeing one of them
upside down beside the motorway a couple of kays later, we
made it back to Al Ain. We were straight into a 4wd trip with
a few of the offroad group out by the airport, just 15 minutes
from home. Good fun, a chance to see some desert and the
passengers even got to see three of the local (expat) ladies help
get an Emirati out of a serious stuck. We had a look around
town on Thursday but the girls barely had time to settle in
because on Friday (or Saturday?) we headed off to Liwa, a
desert Oasis in the east of the UAE. We drove for a few hours
and met up with some more of the Offroaders before heading
into the sand at Madinat Zayed, and pitching the tents in a
hurry.

We got a few hours driving in on the dunes there, mainly
practicing longer descents so those heading on another trip
the next day got the hang of them. You can't afford to
brake on the big slopes, you just have to plug it into a low
gear and let the engine do the work. If you brake and lose
the rear end you're likely to find it slipping out the side
and before you know it you'll be rolling down the hill. Not
the best way to get down!

We had a quick 13km trip back to camp and Ande was
lucky to be in another vehicle as Matija's tummy objected
to the bumps and she threw up in the back of the Xtonka
(thank goodness her clothes collected most of it). We
arrived back in time to cook a barbecue and settle around
the fire for the evening. It had been cool during the day
and was positively cold that night. We'd loaned Michelle
and Annette lightweight sleeping bags but they obviously
aren't used to cold conditions in Southland and both of
them froze for most of the night.

We were a little heavily loaded for the big trip the next
day so we headed to Liwa proper and got a look at some
of the biggest dunes in the area before heading back.
We checked out the big Moreeb dune where they have a
grandstand and do some pretty spectacular hillclimbing on
the UAE's biggest sand dune. Not for the faint-hearted.
It actually started raining as we were driving back, only
the second rain we've had since we've been here, so it
was certainly an unusual trip and those in the sand dunes
found themselves driving in gluggy soup that filled up
the tires and made turning nearly impossible.

We spent a few days visiting the markets, malls, souqs
and landmarks before heading off to Musandam, the
northern territory of Oman. Our mate Murray took his
Pathfinder and Marion, our neighbour came too - she was
invaluable as she'd been there before. It was a pretty big
drive to the border, we did find an interesting camping
shop on the way and crawled through Ras Al Khaimah, a
northern emirate where the road was cracking and sinking
under the weight of thousands of trucks and the scenery
was bleak - a procession of grubby roadside shops and three
huge cement factories.
We finally got through the border into Oman and were
immediately greeted by stunning roadside beaches tucked
just under towering cliffs and hillsides. We stopped for a
late lunch and a swim in beautiful water then made our
leisurely way to Khasab, cruising up some side roads into
villages and having a look around. The place is very
different to the UAE. The villages are generally small and
tidy with smaller houses, goats wandering the streets and
a few people out and about.

When we got to Khasab we booked in for a dhow cruise the
next day then went for a drive to find a camping spot.
There was a spot in some acacia trees, but we ended up
driving over a hill and down a snaking track into the only
bay accessible by car in the Musandam. Fishing boats were
coming home and guys were packing up nets but we found
a nice spot back off the track and up the hill from the
designated camping area. We were close to an old
graveyard. In this part of the world graves are usually just
marked with a rock at the feet and another one at the head
.
There were a few old ruined huts and shelters around and
it proved a great place to camp. There was even a water
tank down at the edge of the bay. We had our own wood for
a campfire and settled in for dinner and a snooze. In the
morning we were visited by the local goats and after Murray
fed them we couldn't get rid of them again. After packing
up we went for a drive, looking for the track towards Dibba,
on the other coast. The track was on our maps, but it took
half an hour to find it as it was only signposted from one
direction and it was just a gravel path veering sharply away
from a sealed road. Anyway we climbed quite a way up into
the mountains, past a few old stone villages and a helipad,
then stopped where we could get a view back where we'd
come. We were at a little village and there was a grassy plain
stretching for a couple of kays to the next big hills. A few
sheep and goats were grazing there in fenced paddocks (some
of the only one's we've seen up there). It was quite spectacular
and we went for a little walk up one of the tracks and a photo
stop before coffee and dates.

We made it back in time to catch the dhow up into Musandam.
It's a big area of inlets and fishing villages beneath stark
cliffs and it really is quite spectacular. From Khasab the
Omani's export cigarettes, tv's, shoes and all manner of stuff
into Iran. This is legal from the Oman end, but highly illegal
from Iran. Hundreds of high speed boats are continually
powering out of Khasab, heavily loaded with big boxes of
stuff. There is a constant stream of overloaded utes carting
stuff to the wharf and trucks unload and pack onto smaller
vehicles in carparks, on the side of the road and anywhere
else they can fit. It's a little crazy. Apparently they hit the
beaches in Iran and load out onto waiting trucks. Those that
get caught pay cash 'fines' instantly or get to spend a bit of
time in Iran's jail system. It's a crazy kind of town, living
on the smuggling, a few date plantations, tourism and
fishing. We saw lots of little boats heading out and when
we came back the fish were spread out all over a wharf
and there was some kind of auction going on with guys
yelling, waving and bumping each other.

We cruised under the cliffs and past a few fishing villages
to a spot where another boat was parked. The skipper
made a few wavy gestures and then gunned the motor and
tore past the other boat. As soon as he did a group of dolphins
came for a swim in the pressure wave to the side of the dhow
. There were six or so and they played for around ten minutes
before disappearing again. We carried on to a little island
where we tied up and went for a snorkel. There were a few
corals underwater and quite a bit of sea life. We made it back
for a lunch on the boat - grilled fish and chicken with salads
, bread and fruit, then cruised back to khasab. The dhows are
reasonably big and you lounge around on cushions. They're
not that noisy and they don't go very fast, making it quite a
mellow, laid back kind of a cruise. We saw the dolphins
again on the way in and stopped at a seafood restaurant fo
r
a bit of fish before camping at a beach under some cliffs
just out of Khasab.

At about 11pm, when we were all asleep the local boys had
a little music and dance session not far from us, drumming
loudly and dancing in their vehicle headlights, then a
scooter rode past us with 3 on board and a stereo absolutely
booming. It's not unusual for this part of the world, at least
they didn't keep going for long and Annette managed to
capture it with video on her camera.

The next day we packed up and headed into town for a little
Indian breakfast. Marion recommended a little place where
we had sweet, milky coffee then paratha (fried breads) with
dahl or a little curried vegetable mix. It was hot, spicy and
very yummy in the morning - a great start to the day. Just
across from us there was another little auction going on,
we think it was for the little utes to carry massive loads to
the dock - you wouldn't believe how much stuff they put on
little trucks and how badly all of their suspension was
treated. Nearly all of them had their numberplates dragging
on the ground.

We stopped for a couple of swims, then made the big drive
back to Al Ain. We took a different route this time and took
a detour around Dubai and Sharjah, the trucks along this
route were nose to tail for around 15 kilometres. There are
about six lanes, but trucks can only use the far left lane and
they're not allowed to overtake so they just form a massive
line and crawl along. Most of the ones we saw weren't even
moving. Incredible!

We made it back on about Wednesday (I think) then had a
couple more days before the girls flew out. We did a trip up
Jebel Hafeet for a view over the area and called in to see a
water park where they're going to have the world's biggest
standing wave (why would you want the second biggest?)
and they've nearly completed a couple of kayak courses
complete with conveyor belts so you can get back to the
start without having to leave the water. Cool! Apparently
there's an easier one and a Grade 4 run. Could be interesting.

I'm getting lost, maybe we went to Abu Dhabi before this?
Can't remember. Some friends came over one night and we
had dinner then went out to one of the worlds best cellist
s
playing (his cello) at an outdoor event at one of the forts.
It was amazing music at an extraordinary location -
something a bit different.

Anyway, at some stage we went to Abu Dhabi with the aunties.
We had a lovely roast lamb dinner at Jenny and Kevin's and
they roped Ande and I into getting aboard a couple of boats
and being safety officers for the Abu Dhabi Triathlon.
Interesting, but not that exciting as no-one needed rescuing.
The aunties had a quality morning with Matija before we did
a quick tour of Abu Dhabi. We did get to see the Grand
Mosque, it was a shame we couldn't make one of the tours
but we got geared up with abaya's and khandoora so that
we could have a look. Just made it before it closed for
prayers, but at least we got a look. We also visited the family
beach and did a bit of shopping at the Marina Mall, one of
the big malls in town. We tried to visit the Emirates Palace,
but the jolly Sheikh was hosting a meeting so we weren't
allowed in.

It was a huge ten days or so with the girls - fantastic to get
to show them a bit of the UAE and to spend some time with
them. I dropped them off to the airport for their flight and
I'm sure they were looking forward to catching up on some
sleep.

Will end this post now and catch you up with our Andorra
trip next time.


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